Shoe construction.



J. BUCKLEY.

SHOE CONSTRUCTION.

APPLICATION .FILED MAR. 13. 195. I

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

' 2 SHEETS-SHEET i.

J. BUCKLEY.

SHOE CONSTRUCTION.

APPLICATION man |1AR.|3,1915.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

mimi;

CNSTEUCTN.

Specification of Letters atent.

Patented 26., MDM).

Implication led Merch l, 1915. Serial No. 14,680.

To all 107mm t may concern.'

Be it known that l, JOHN BUCKLEY, a citi-` -zen of the United States, and a resident of Lynn, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Shoe Construction, of which the following-de scription, in lconnection with the acco1npanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

My invention relates to shoe construction and it is applicable tothe so-called stitch down boots and shoes, the lilclay type oi2 shoe and other ty'pesof shoes that require an inner sole. shoe upper and voutsole whereby the parts ot these shoes may be assembled and united in a simple and expeditious manner, and in which the upper and. inner sole may he united with or Without the usual prior lasting` process.

My invention improves the shoe as will be seen from the accompanying drawings and the description hereinafter.

In the drawings hare disclosed but a single embodiment ot' my invention in Which:-

Figure l is a perspective of a shoe embodying my invention, with a portion of said shoe broken away. Fig. 2 is a greatly enlarged detail cross section on line 2 2 of Fig. l. Figs. 3, e, and 5 are modifications of the detail shown in Fig. 2 as will be more fully described herein. Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail cross section on about the same line 2 2 but extending` clear across the shoe and showing a modilication oi' the structure in Fig. 2. Figs. 7 and 8 are enlarged details a Welt embodying in part my invention. Fig. 9 is a plan view ot the blanl; from which the insole shoivn in l() is produced. Fig. l0 is a perspective view of my improved insole. -Figs ll, 12 and 18 are detail' sections illustrati-ng the insole cross `section and the manner of uniting the insole with an upper and my improved Welt. Fig. is a modified form o1 the blank in Fig. 9 With the guiding flange portion omitted about the heel of the insole.

The terms employed herein are used in the generic and descriptive sense and not primarily for the nirpose ot imposing limitations upon my invention. i l

My invention comprises in a doubled or folded Welt l0 of the character shown' bv' the detail kviews thereof in the drawings.

This doubled or folded welt, or Vdouble and folded welt 1s made up ot a strip of leather Fig. Si for' the purpose of receiving of substantially tivice the Width of the iinlshed size of Weltdesired or twice the Width of the present tyie ot Welt and it is then creased along the middle ll thereofto form what may be termed herein as lianges l-i and l5 ot equal width. l

rlhe doubled or folded Welt shown in Figs. 7 and 8 may be oi' lighter Weight or even of a thinner grade ot leather than that now emoloyed tor the single strip or strip welt known in the art, but when doubled or folded as shown herein .'aid Welt will present substantially' the saine streiigth andA thickness of between substance as novv eniployed in the case of the said single strip Welt. It desired the Welt may also beprovidcd with a score or groove 16 as shown in stitching r other fastenings hereinafter fescrihed This Welt may be carried about both sides of the shank, both sides ot the :tore part and about the toe or" the shoe in substantially the same manner as heretofore in the emiloyv4 nient ot' the single strip like Welt. u

ln carrying out my invention l preterablv employ 'an insole as shoivn in F 9 to ret inclusive comprising a main soie shaped body portion'20 and a guiding tlange 2i eX- tending at right angles 3 the surface ot' the saidbody portion 20. [is shown in the figures illustrating` the saine the insole 2O is produced from a blank somewhiit larger than the usual sir/.e of the solo desired and along the dotted line 23 there is provided a score or groove r'his score or groove is formed by slitting partiai y t' rough the Aaterial along the on Fig. 9 at the tread tace oi the sole and J erpendicular to the said sole which permits ot the guidingilange 2l in n tion as shown in il. the tiange 2l is provided n" 26 extending fr ni said .score or ,.rc Je 2li: to the edgeot w Q f shaped preteral iange 2l the il f by titan..

niously to describ t crance about the gu slit-s 'more nearl iiorm around the insole.

A nting a more n; r'ro -v i example,

and il.

of... ion

" may also he omitted along;

l In the manufacture of the McKay or other types of shoe the said guiding flange will not form a ridge beneath the insole.

The upper 31 of the shoe is preferably cut to size so that the outer or bottom edge 39 may be brought in line with the edge of the flange 21 of the insole and the said flange will form a guide against whichl the edge of the upper may be laid and by means of which it may be positioned and gaged during the sewing operation whetherthe said parts are on a last or not.

The guiding flanges 21 in addition to forming a guide against which the edge of the upper is placed and positioned also assists in guiding the work with relation te the operation of the needle as the presserfoot of the sewing machine'may rest in the angle formed between the body portion 20 of the insole and the inner face of the guiding flange 21. This is desirable inasmuch as the guiding flange 21 provides a means whereby the edge of the upper may be ac` curately positioned and guided with relau tion to the stitch forming mechanism of the sewing machine in placing the line of stitchi ing 32 and in addition the welt 10 may also be accurately guided at the proper place along the outer surface of the shoe upper 31.

A sock lining 33 may if desired, be secured tothe insole by the stitching 34 about .the marginal portion thereof as shown in Fig. 12. The said sock lining will conform in shape tothe bottomedge of the last and to the margin of the score or groove 24 about the said insole.

If desired a skipper or thin intermediate sole'may also be employed as shown in Figs. 2 and 4. vThis thin intermediate sole is of light thin tough leather and it may be secured by a line of stitching 35 to the outstanding edges of the upper and the flange.

21 as` shown in Fig. 5. In lieu of the above @method of securing the said Skipper t0 the saidupper and insole it may be secured by a line of stitching to the lower flange 15 of the Welt previous to which the flange 21 of the insole and the edge of the upper have been trimmed down close to the line of stitching as'shown in Fig. 4. When the upper 31 is laid against the guiding flange 21 and fastened thereto by the line of stitching 38 the welt 10 may then be positioned so that the fold 11 lies substantially along the score or groove 24 and the operator tales the insole, the upper and the welt and presents them to the action of a straight or curved needle-sewing machine the needle of which telenet passes the stitching 36 through the-guiding flange ,21, through the upper and through the welt substantially along the fold 11. After the insole, the upper and the welt 10 have been united by the line of stitching 36 and if lasting has not been performed prior thereto a last of the desired shape and size may now be forced into the shoe to yshape the upper and cause it to conform closely to the outlines of the said last.

In making the so-called welt shoeembodying ingr-invention the upper and insole maybe assembled and united in any suitable and preferred manner herein described, and the double or folded welt herein is preferably united to the above by the line of stitching 36 then after the necessary operations are' performed to put the shoe in condition to receive the outsole, the flanges 14 and 15 are brought together and may-be cemented one to the other.

I/Vhen the welt 1Q, the upper 31 and the .insole have been united above .stated the flange 21 may be slightly flattened down by beating the same. The insole, upper and welt now joined are secured to the outsole 41 by a line of stitching 37 passing. through both between substances of the Welt and through the said outsole.

In the event that it is desired to make stitch-down shoes as in Figs. 2 and 5 the edge of the upper and the guiding flange 21 of the insole are turned downward and outward in the plane ,of the bottom of the last l and an outsole 41 is secured to the entstanding double welt 10, to the said edge of the upper and to the outstanding edges of the guiding flange 21 by means of a line of stitching 38 and the sole is finished in the usual manner of finishing stitch-down shoes.

When it is desired to make a shoe after the upper the insole and the said welt have been united by the stitching 32 and 36 and after the introduction of the last therein it Will be understood that the edge of the upper and the guiding flange 21 maybe turned inward over the bottom of the insole, or turned downward and outward as in Figs. 2 and 5 or may be trimmed off close to the lines of the aforesaid stitching as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and 'a filling material if desired may be laid vuponthe surface of the insole Within the in'turned edges of the upper and flange 21 or between the trimmed edges oftiie upper and insole flange 21 after which the outsole is laid and. may be tem- 'Lawaai porarily secured in any, or in the usual manner. Thereafter, the outsole, the insole and the upper and the welt the. flanges of which have been brought together to form a single between substance7 are united by a line of Wire nails or by stitching 37 formed by the usual wax thread lock stitch straight or curved needle shoe sewing machine.

ln case the' inside is produced `Without any portion of the guiding ange 21 thereabout theupper about such portion from which said flange has been omitted Will be lasted over in the usual manner. If for example the guiding flange only extends about the toe and fore part of the shoe and there is no guiding flange 21 about the shank and heel of the insole said stitchings 32 and 26 will then unite the insole, the Welt and the upper about the said fore part and toe and the upper along the line of the shank,

is then lasted over in the said usual manner.-l

lt is of course understood that shoes produced in the manner hereinbefore described may' have the usual stiffenings, linings and other parts commonly going to make up a shoe and that they will be of the usual form and arrangement.

While preferably l employ an insole of the type illustrated and described herein nevertheless in carrying out my invention with relation to the double or folded Welt l may employ any other suitable insole adapted to perform the functions and objects of the insole described herein.

l have described herein one embodiment of my invention; but it is to be understood that the latter is not essentially limited to the specilic details of construction and organization of said'embodiment, since the same may be varied Without departing from the proper scope of the claim.

Claim- A shoe construction comprising an upper,

Aan insole provided With a tapering Hangt adapted to be turned into-any angular relation With respect to the body of the insole in order that said up er and insole when joined may be utilize shoes, said insole flange being provided with slits or notches, and a strip of material folded to form a double-Welt and united to said upper and insole by a line of stitches substantially along the fold of the Welt.

ln testimony whereof, I have'signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

JOHN BUCKLEY. Vlitnesses:

GEORGE A. RocnwnLL, MAUD E. ORGAN.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Enmmissiener of Patents.

Washington, D. C.

for different types of 

